Máscara Peel-off contendo subprodutos do processamento da lichia (Litchi chinensis Sonn.): desenvolvimento e potencial antioxidante

Abstract

Waste generated during fruit processing, such as peels and seeds, is often not used, although it has significant potential for reuse. This study has investigated the use of lychee by-products, specifically its peels and seeds, for the development of a peel-off facial mask. The objective was to evaluate the viabilityof these by-products as sources of antioxidant compounds for cosmetic application. The following procedures were performed: centesimal composition of the by-products, which included the determination of the protein, lipid, crude fiber, moisture and ash contents; quantification of total phenolics in de extracts using the Folin-Ciocalteu method; evaluation of antioxidant activity of the extracts using the ABTS•+ and DPPH• methods; macroscopic analysis of the mask regarding uniformity, color and appearance; and the study of the stability of the formulation, which involved centrifugation, pH, apparent viscosity,

spreadability and drying time tests. The results obtained indicated that the lychee by- products have a high crude fiber content (26.12 ± 0.14 g.100g-1

) and low moisture

content (0.41 ± 0.01 g.100g-1

). The protein, lipid and ash contents were 4.80 ± 0.04

g.100g-1 , 1.36 ± 0.02 g.100g-1 and 4.89 ± 0.05g.100g-1

, respectively. The determination of total phenolics in the extracts resulted in a value of 401.2 ± 0.5 mg EAG/g. The antioxidant activity of the extracts was confirmed with IC50 of 0.93μg/mL for theABTS•+ method and 3.97μg/mL for the DPPH• method, demonstrating high efficacy in neutralizing free radicals. Macroscopic analysis revealed that the peel-off mask maintained the same color,uniformity and appearance throughout the test period. The stability study showedthat the pH of the base formulation was 5.47 ± 0. 2 and that of the formulation with active ingredients was 5.39 ± 0.1, with minimal variations in storage conditions (room, refrigerator and oven). The apparent viscosity had an average value of 2510 cP forthe base formulation and 2470 cP for the formulation with active ingredients. Furthermore, the formula showed good applicability and good evaporation after application, with drying times of 32 minutes in a Petri dish and 41

minutes on the skin. The conclusion of this study reinforces the relevance of the peel- off mask developed as an innovation in the reuse of lychee waste by-products. The

formulation not only demonstrates cosmetic efficacy with promising antioxidant properties, but also represents a sustainable approach to waste management, offering significant added value andcontributing to the circular economy in the cosmetics sector.